Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The Ross Sisters sing and ... contort!

Just a quick post to share a most interesting video from 1944 that I just came across on YouTube...

These are the Ross Sisters, who do 3-part harmony singing as well as acrobatics and contortionism. This clip is from the 1944 movie "Broadway Rhythm". The first minute seems simple enough, but after that things get a little more .... interesting. The finale move is one that made my jaw hit the floor.


We just don't seem to get entertainment like this anymore these days! I haven't seen the entire movie but it's on my 'must watch' list after seeing this clip:





Friday, April 16, 2010

The Sunday Drive - memories of the 1940s

Ive read a lot of books about the 1930s - 1940s, but nothing truly transports you there like a first-hand account from someone who lived and breathed during that time. I'm fortunate that both my parents have written some excellent anecdotes about their lives in the USA and England during the '30s and '40s. The Great Depression and the war years really come to life in these stories.

This is a favourite story of my mother's, recalling the excitement and adventures of going driving in the 1940s. It's lengthy for a blog post, but trust me, it's well worth the read. Enjoy!


"The Sunday Drive"
a recollection of the 1940s, by Patricia Speer

Those first old cars we had were never able to go more than 25 mph on a level road, and going uphill slowed us down considerably. But sometimes on our Sunday drives, when Dad and Uncle Vic raced their cars against each other at top speed, with all of us family members on board shuddering and shaking in unison with the cars, we felt, even at 25 mph, like we were flying with the wind. At the greatest point of mechanical stress when the shaking and knocking reached critical mass, the racing ended no matter who was winning, as neither man dared to have the health of his automobile challenged to the point of collapse.

We loved those high-speed races. My brother Freddy and me and our cousins Shirley and Henry, took part as very willing if not eager passengers along with our parents, in the sometimes exciting and adventurous “Sunday Drives” that began immediately after our fathers bought their first cars.

This happened in the peacetime years after World War II ended when the production of consumer goods began to power up again. Newly manufactured cars, as well as everything else new, were not in plentiful supply and so were too expensive for most people to buy. In our town of Ramsgate in Kent, a used car market existed but it was small and pretty much restricted to the recycling of old jalopies that had already lived out their useful life spans, but were being sold off by families wanting money for more essential things.

Uncle Lewis, the only one of my Mother’s brothers to survive the war, was the first in our family to purchase such a used car. When he brought it home he beamed like he was now the king of the castle; the first person in the family to do something magnificent. It was a sight to behold, and had the other men in the family eye popping and filled with envy.

After that there was no stopping Dad and our Uncle Vic from doing all they could to be able to purchase such a vehicle for themselves. I believe our Dad bought the next car, an old black Singer. They were all black. This was swiftly followed by Uncle Vic’s purchase of the largest and most decrepit vehicle of them all. It looked like a hearse ready for the scrap heap, but it was his pride and joy.

Whenever the men had a Sunday free we would all go for a Sunday drive. They, especially, looked forward to this all week. Most times there were just two cars in the caravan, the Singer and the 'hearse'. Uncle Lewis, being away at sea for a month at a time as a ship’s captain in service to Trinity House, was most times unable to accompany us. It was Uncle Lewis, though, who taught Dad and Uncle Vic how to drive these ancient dinosaurs. Taking lessons from him proved very helpful even though Lewis didn’t yet have his own driving license. He taught them what to do to get the engine started with the crank inserted into the front of the car, how to drive in a straight line and turn corners being aware of the width of the car they were in, and how to brake properly using the gearing down method. This information from Uncle Lewis’s tutelage was considered sufficient to begin Sunday drives right away.

Little Freddy and Patsy (my mom) on the running board of their Dad's car

One of the critical tasks involved in our Sunday drive outings was initially getting the cars to start. This required manual skill, a lot of luck, and oftentimes a lot of stamina. Many a time we would all be sitting in anticipation in the cars, dressed in our good Sunday clothes in readiness to go, when the sound of numerous cranks to the engine of one or other of the cars, told us that a delay was certain. We would cross our fingers for each new attempt.

When the men had to stop to take a breath before continuing the effort, we would look at each other and grimace, roll our eyes to the roof, and slump glumly in our seats resting our faces in our hands, hoping that the engine would eventually cooperate. Sometimes it took so long we would get out of the cars and mill around, watching the profuse efforts that were involved in trying to get the thing started. When the aged engine finally did sputter to life though, the men beamed in sweaty triumph. Everyone’s spirits immediately lifted, and we all happily climbed back into the cars and were off on another trip.

The worst calamity that could befall us once on the road was for one of the cars to stall en route and draw attention to ourselves. This happened one time to Uncle Vic’s hearse as it was passing through a busy intersection controlled by a traffic policeman. We in the Singer following right behind were horrified, first of all to see the police, and then to see the hearse slow down, cough and splutter, shudder and then collapse into a heap of silence right in front of the officer in the middle of the intersection. It was a completely unexpected piece of bad luck. There were no tricky corners to negotiate that might have revealed the drivers’ lack of skill, and we thought that as long as we looked straight ahead as we drove by the policeman we would not look suspiciously like unlicensed cars and drivers. Shirley and I were in the back seat of the Singer, while the two boys, Freddy and Henry, were in the back seat of the hearse, with Uncle Vic and Aunty May up front.

None of us can remember what story Uncle Vic came up with to divert the policeman’s attention from asking the fatal questions. Luck was with us though as traffic began to back up at the intersection and the officer became anxious to get us out of the way. Vic began cranking at the handle to try to bring the hearse back to life, and after dramatically puffing and wheezing at this for a few turns, the policeman impatiently took a turn without realizing that his efforts would need to be successful if he was to retain the respect of all the interested onlookers. It ended up with Uncle Vic and the policeman both pushing the great hulk through the intersection, and after more endless cranking, we were able to leave the scene, and with great relief.

We could never travel too far from home at 15-20 mph. Our destination was often one of the beaches along the south east coast - Pegwell Bay, Sandwich, Deal etc. - where we would play in the sand and water, or Sturry Woods. Here, Freddy liked to lay face down on the ground parallel to the stream in the Woods, dangling his arm down over the edge of the bank with an open jar in his hand, in high hopes of scooping up tadpoles swimming in the stream. He wanted to watch them turn into frogs at home. I remember the tadpoles in the jar but don’t recall any frogs in the house. I liked to pick the wild primroses and bluebells that grew there.

Sometimes we would travel inland to explore places such as Rochester and Fordwich. Most times the Sunday drive included a picnic that our mothers had made. If we were hungry before we were able to reach our destination, we would stop and picnic on a grass verge beside the road oblivious to other cars passing by.

As the men received more lessons from Uncle Lewis, they became more and more confident of their abilities, and Sunday drives took on the added fun of some carefree singing as we traveled along. We could always tell when there was singing happening in the hearse in front of us, as we could just see, through the hearse’s high rear window, the top of Uncle Vic’s peaked cap dipping rhythmically up and down, and pointing straight up when he reached the high notes.

It bothered us at first that he would always drive his hearse with the division line in the road centered right between his left and right wheels. Though an accurate way for him to gauge his straight line driving, we feared it would attract the attention of any passing policeman. I guess we were lucky, as we were never stopped.

Our Singer had the only luxury of a sliding section in the roof, with an inside handle that made it possible for that part of the roof to slide open, to allow the sun and fresh air inside. It didn’t actually slide, but moved stiffly open and closed when pushed hard enough. Dad was the only one with enough muscle to accomplish this. When Freddy and I were in the car, we really enjoyed standing up on the back seat and sticking our heads out the top to enjoy the wind blowing on our faces. The concept of child safety and seat belts was years into the future.

The one disadvantage to using the sliding roof was that, the car being so old and rusty, we would be showered with rust particles every time we opened and closed it. In fact, every time we drove over a bump or the car jolted, all passengers would be showered with rust, and we would have to brush ourselves off when we got out of the car.

The greatest mishap occurred on the Sunday drive that found us traveling along what eventually was realized to be a wrong road. The only place to turn around involved backing up a narrow dirt pathway that straddled a water filled ditch on each side of it, and Uncle Lewis’s driving lessons hadn’t yet covered the backing up procedure.

The Singer, with Shirley and me in the back seat, made a successful attempt the first time and Dad was very proud of himself. Following this, Uncle Vic started to back up the mighty hearse, but being such a large vehicle, and Uncle Vic being a rather short man, his visibility wasn’t very good for tackling this tricky reverse turn. At our back seat window watching his attempt at negotiating this maneuver, we suddenly gasped with fright as we saw the back right wheel start to sink over the side toward the ditch. Then, as Vic tried in vain to remedy the situation, the front right wheel started to slide down as well, and we could see Uncle Vic slowly disappear from view, and Mom and Aunty May panicking in the back seat trying to scramble uphill to get out of the side door. They were quite badly shaken by this little accident, but no one was hurt.

We witnesses who had watched spellbound, never forgot the image of that scene as the hearse slid slowly but surely overboard. The hearse was eventually retrieved with a towrope from the Singer, a hopeless but friendly gesture that would have been entirely unsuccessful without the additional rescue efforts and towropes from other motorists who stopped to help. We were glad there wasn’t a policeman there when we needed him! We headed straight back home after this little incident.

In spite of this and all the other minor mishaps that occurred, the Sunday drives continued, and Dad and Uncle Vic learned enough all the while from Uncle Lewis’s driving lessons, to eventually sit and pass their respective driving tests.

After happily accepting credit, with many handshakes and pats on the back, for successfully tutoring Dad and Uncle Vic into two newly qualified and licensed drivers, Uncle Lewis took his test and failed.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Sewing Project: Vintage Dress update 2

Well, the Easter weekend is now behind us - time for a vintage sewing project status update.

Here's the summary:

I got a lot done.
I did not finish the dress.
I had two Very Unsettling Incidents involving zippers.

* sigh *

Here's the lowdown, with photos...

Overall things are going really well. The pieces are coming together nicely and, barring one rather odd sleeve section, all my notches are matching up as I'm sewing. This almost never happens to me, so it's quite exciting to have the pieces just 'fit together' as they should.


The front of the dress is made up of long panels -
different to the usual bodice + skirt arrangement

Side view

Bias binding trim sewn in place, and a line of yellow thread
above marking where more trim needs to go

It's sitting a little oddly so I decided to top-stitch in place.

There... that's much better!

Belt sections constructed. I didn't have quite enough material
so they are 1.5 inches shorter than they're supposed to be.

I've got most of the main sections sewn together, barring the front panel. I've got the sleeves constructed and one actually attached to the bodice.

Initially I was concerned that the dress might come up too small. I'm a 34-28-38 and most patterns for a 34 bust assume a smaller waist and hip size, so that if I make a dress to fit a 34 bust it's really tight in the waist. I figured a vintage pattern might be even worse as it might assume that a) I have a smaller waist, and b) I wear a corset regularly.

However, as the pieces are going together it looks like the opposite could be true - so far the dress seems a little too roomy, especially around the bodice, where it looks a little droopy. This could just be the style though - the belt will allow me to cinch the waist tight and perhaps the upper bodice is meant to be 'blousey'. We'll see.

Side seams pinned in place

There seems to be a heck of a lot of 'slop' in the underarm/bust area.
Hopefully this will work out okay. (Center panel is just pinned in place)

Sleeves constructed from two panels with trim at the seam.

Sewing the sleeve seam together
The first time my notches and fabric length didn't add up -
the hem was out by half an inch or more!

Two sleeves constructed and ready to attach.
Note the trim on the sleeve hem is slightly wider on one than the other. Oops.

I've got one sleeve in and it went in okay, although it too looks a little droopy. It's got lots of poofy gathers which look swell if you hold it up, but just droop down otherwise. I may need to add a stiffener to add shape when it's done. The proof will be in the final trying-on after the other seams are in place.

Bodice trim and one sleeve in place

Awesome retro sleeve!

But it may need help staying aloft on its own. It looks a little deflated!

All was going swimmingly until it came time to put in the zippers. There are two, and I managed to stuff up both of them somewhat.

Zipper 1 goes in the left side seam. I managed to get it in mostly okay but I did a dumb thing regarding the adjoining belt. The nifty fabric belt needed to be sewn into the same seam as the zipper, but, with a lack of any clear directions to follow and a lack of forethought, I sewed the belt onto the wrong side, so that when the seam was finished if you tied the belt it pulled on the seam and exposed the zipper in a gapey, not-very-professional-looking way.

Whoops.

So I unpicked that section to fix it, and, in the process of unpicking I did the unimaginable and made a small rip in the fabric with the unpicker. DRAT!

I decided to Keep Calm and Carry On however, and moved the belt to the other side and re-sewed, so now the belt neatly covers the zipper seam instead of pulling at it. Hoorah! I then mended the rip with a bit of random looking yet effective sewing. Mend and make do!

The fixed up seam with the belt attached to the front of the dress so that it covers over the seam when tied. I initially had it attached to the other side of the opening, where it pulled at the seam and exposed the otherwise invisible zipper. Silly me!

A bit of inexpert mending of a small rip above the zipper stop

It would have been nice to have that extra 1.5 inches
of length on the belt, but it still makes a nice bow.

So, Zipper Number 2 goes in at the neckline (from the neckline to the shoulder blades). The directions say to 'slash' (cut) the fabric along the line marked and then clip the end diagonally.

Stupidly, I went ahead without really thinking this through and made the diagonal cuts WAY too big (5/8 inch, if you must know). I forgot that this is a zip set into a slash and not a seam, so the usual seam allowance rules don't apply.

Essentially what I did was make a cut so wide that when you folded it back you had a massive inch-wide hole in the fabric where a narrow slit should be.

Double whoops.

In my defense, I've never done a zipper set into a slash before, only along seams, and I really have no idea what I'm doing.

A perusal through some sewing books and the internet gave me a plan of action involving a piece of fabric to use as facing. I won't bore you with the details, but suffice it to say I think I've managed to salvage the back zip, mostly. I say mostly because I was left with the huge diagonal cuts in the fabric and the only way I could think to fix them was to sew the crap out of them on zig zag. I'm not proud of the results. It looks crap. But there you go. Lesson learned.

Zipper pinned into place after fandangling around to get a narrower gap
(previously the gap where the zipper is visible was over an inch wide - ha ha ha oopsie)

Highly Inexpert Mending of Stupid Mistake

So, as of right now I still need to sew in the back zip (hopefully without incident!), then attach the second sleeve, hem and trim the neckline and front panels and attach the remaining centre front panel. Oh, and hem the skirt.

There's a dress-up Big Band night tomorrrow night - I wonder if the dress will be ready in time?

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Sewing Project: Vintage Dress update 1

I've made an exciting bit of progress since deciding to embark upon my latest vintage dressmaking project.

I read some useful advice on the Sew Craftful website about sewing with vintage patterns, and I carefully marked up each pattern piece as recommended with notes and as many useful markings as I could figure out, like grainlines and construction guidelines.

All the pattern pieces are present and accounted for

Each piece has been marked with grainline and instructions

I noticed that the (scant) instructions included with my vintage pattern mention a 3/8 inch seam allowance, but I have no idea if that is 'included' in the pattern size or if you are supposed to add it when cutting out the fabric.

I've gone on the assumption that the 3/8 inch is included, but when I cut out the fabric I decided to add another 2/8 inch. Why? Because I'm so used to sewing using the now-standard 5/8 inch seam allowance that I want to avoid going on autopilot and sewing the entire dress too small. I'm not experienced in fiddling around with seam allowances but I couldn't see how adding another 2/8 inch on each seam would cause disaster, so that's my plan.

I've got jusssssst enough fabric - no room for mistakes!

Some common advice by expert sewers is to make a 'muslin' before starting on the project properly. Muslin is an inexpensive fabric used to make a life-sized mock up of the garment, so you can check that it goes together properly and make any adjustments before then doing the 'real thing'.

I know this is a really, really good idea. Very practical and prudent. But also kind of boring.

I'm wayyyyy too impatient for that level of care. Plus I HATE the 'pinning and cutting out' stage of dressmaking, and the thought of doing it twice (once for muslin, then again for real fabric) makes my eyes glaze over and fall out of my head.

So, my approach is to buy nice-yet-inexpensive material and essentially use that as my 'muslin'. That way if the dress doesn't work out first time round, I'm only out around $20 for fabric and chalk it up to experience. But if it DOES work first time round, I have a lovely new dress ready to wear with no need to 'make it all over again' in real fabric. Hurrah!

I know, it's not the recommended way to sew. And probably one day I'll graduate to using muslins. But not today :)

So, the marking up of the pieces and pinning to the fabric was one evening's work, and last night I did the nerve-wracking cutting out, adding 2/8 inch to each edge. Each piece has a label pinned to it so I don't get them mixed up and sew a skirt side front where a skirt side back should be!


Today is Saturday of the Easter long weekend and my goal is to finish the dress by the end of the long weekend. Perhaps it's an overambitious goal - we'll see.

Right. Enough blogging. Time to start sewing!